Fix warping issues once and for all. Part 1 Part 2

Must use a Temperature Controlled Outlet to shut off everything when the Hot Box reaches 75°C.
This 3 Outlet Plug Adapter will also come in handy to shut off other things at the same time.

DDW X1C Hot Box Drawing & DDW X1C Chitu Heater Shroud
Chitu 3D Printer Heater
Bambu Lab X1-Carbon

Last time we installed a chamber heater. This time we will retain the heat with the DDW X1C Hot Box made out of 1″ insulation foam, aluminum foil tape, and roof repair material for its soundproofing property.

Preheating the X1C inside the DDW Hot Box with 30°C ambient, 120°C bed, 100% aux fan, and 100°C heater, the chamber reaches:

• 40°C in 8 minutes
• 50°C in 17 minutes
• 60°C in 26 minutes
• 70°C in 36 minutes
• 80°C in 58 minutes, X1C stops printing at 70°C+, 80°C+

We mainly print PLA and ASA, so we use Bambu High Temperature Plate (Smooth PEI).

PLA Default Print Settings

• Bambu Lab Glue Stick
• 45°C heater
• DDW Hot Box side vent opens 75% (adjust to maintain 40-45°C)

ASA Default Print Settings

• Bambu Lab Glue Stick
• 70°C heater
• DDW Hot Box side vent opens 5% (adjust to maintain 65-70°C)

Note that ASA starts to experience heat creep or filament clogging at 70°C+.

If you’re experiencing bed adhesion issues, which I highly doubt, adding brims will help, setting the brim gap to 0mm.

Fix warping issues once and for all. Part 1 Part 2

Chitu 3D Printer Heater
DDW X1C Chitu Heater Shroud
Bambu Lab X1-Carbon

Having the right chamber temperature is fundamental for 3D printing in my opinion. It’s physics. It will fix warping, reduce shrinkage, improve print quality, and increase layer adhesion. All is achieved by just using default print settings.

All is possible with the help of the Chitu Mini 3D Printer Heater. I cut some wires, used some connectors, and drilled a hole to give it a nice, clean fit to the Bambu Lab X1-C. You can get creative on installation and or just use the heater as is.

I should mention that this is a mini heater with a 24V 5A or 120W power supply, but the heater itself is only 75W. It can get up to about 40°C by itself in maybe 30-40 minutes with little insulation. I was expecting more heat, but it’s good enough nonetheless. It can get up to the set temperature faster with the help of a heated bed, continuous printing, and good insulation. Another factor is that everything inside the printer will need to be heated as well which can take some time. Once they’re warm, then it’s easier and faster to get to set temperature and maintain that temperature.

So far, here is what I have experienced with the heater while barely taping most of the gaps around the printer. Print using a Cool Plate and a Smooth PEI High Temp Plate.

• PLA chamber temp set to 45°C, using default print settings, and the actual temp ranges between 40-45°C.
• ASA chamber temp set to 60°C, using default print settings with every fan turned off, and the actual temp ranges between 50-52°C.

To be honest, I wanted a 60°C+ chamber temperature to print ABS/ASA, but it topped out at 52°C. However, it’s confirmed, no warping at 50-52°C for small ASA prints; no brims, no draft shields, nothing special, just default print settings with every fan turned off. I should mention that the ASA was in the filament dryer at 60°C for that extra nice quality print. A big ASA print warped at 50-52°C chamber temperature.

What’s next? Welp, it is time to take insulation seriously and hit that 60°C+ chamber temperature. Stay tuned for the next post!

Other than that, all that’s left to do is find the optimal chamber temperature for each material.